Defeating your gear’s worst enemy

Your dive gear represents a substantial investment — one you want to last. Unfortunately, nature is rife with elements that are conspiring to seriously damage or destroy that investment.

The sun wants nothing more than to cause your gear to fade prematurely and break down the integrity of the fabric.

Ozone in the atmosphere can cause neoprene to oxidize so that it breaks down into useless particles.

Sand and dirt can cause abrasion, further damaging your precious gear.

Yet, of all the elements conspiring against your equipment, none is more deadly or more pernicious than salt.

Salt is just plain evil

Salt can adversely affect your equipment in a number of ways. For example:

Salt can corrode a variety of metals, including aluminum and steel, the two metals used to make scuba cylinders. If you get saltwater inside a steel tank, the resulting rust can destroy the cylinder in a matter of days.

A build-up of salt on the inside of regulators can prevent their smooth operation. It can also clog the transducer ports on some dive computers.

As saltwater dries, it forms razor-sharp crystals. These can puncture BC air cells and other equipment.

Diving in saltwater is fun…but you don’t that salt hanging around in or on your equipment any longer than is absolutely necessary.

The universal antidote

Now we get to the part you already know. The antidote for salt water is fresh water. Fresh water not only has the power to dissolve salt but rinse it away.

Freshwater is most effective when you use it before the salt has a chance to dry. However, if the salt does dry, a sufficiently long soak in fresh water will dissolve it so that you can then rinse it away.

Again, you already know this. What you might not know, however, is how to use fresh water most effectively. That’s what we will focus on in this article.

Soak vs. rinse

Which is the best way to care for your gear following a dive?

Soaking it in a tub of fresh water?
Rinsing it with a steady stream of fresh water?

The answer is, it depends.

If the saltwater has not had the opportunity to dry, thoroughly rinsing your gear with a steady stream of fresh water can remove all traces of salt.

In contrast, merely soaking your gear in freshwater may dilute the amount of salt present, but may not completely remove it.

Nevertheless, if the salt on your gear has had the opportunity to dry, you will first need to soak your equipment to dissolve the salt before you can rinse it effectively.

Beware the communal bin

Most dive boats and resorts will have a freshwater “rinse bucket” in which you can dip your gear following the dive. These work best if you are among the first to use them. However, with each subsequent user, the water in the tub will become increasingly salty. Eventually, it will become little better than rinsing your gear in the ocean.

It’s best to treat the communal rinse bucket as a stop-gap measure until you can get to someplace where you can more effectively clean it.

Transporting salty gear

As you already know, storing wet equipment in a closed container such as a non-mesh gear bag or plastic storage container is a bad idea. Not unless you want to make friends with Mr. Mildew.

As a temporary measure while driving back from the shore or boat, however, it can be a very good idea. Doing so will help prevent the salt from drying and salt crystals from forming. Just don’t leave your gear sitting like this any longer than is necessary.

The ideal rinse station and procedure

The ideal situation for cleaning your fear following a dive in saltwater is a driveway or patio with a garden hose and a clean plastic trash can. Absent this, a bathroom whose tub or shower has a showerhead on a flexible hose will suffice.

Start by filling the trash can most of the way with fresh water. Immerse your wet, salty (or less-than-thoroughly-rinsed) gear in this while you turn you attention to one piece of equipment at a time. If doing this in the bathroom, fill the tub partway with fresh water and soak your gear there.

Before immersing your regulator, make sure the dust cap is firmly in place. Make certain also that your dust cap is one that will keep water out. If it isn’t, replace it one that is. Salt water getting entering your first stage through the normal air inlet can cause all manner of problems.

After giving your gear at least a few minutes to soak, pull items out one at a time and spray them down with water from the hose or showerhead. Make sure water gets into all nooks and crannies.

If using a garden hose spray nozzle, use a wide, gentle spray. A high-pressure stream can force water or, worse, salt into places it does not need to go.

Allow a gentle stream of water to enter each second-stage mouthpiece. Keep the water going until you see it come out the exhaust ports.

When rinsing the BC, first fully inflate it, then turn it upside down and let the water from the dive drain out the mouthpiece. Now partially fill the BC with freshwater. Re-inflate the BC and turn it over and over so that the freshwater rinses all interior surfaces. Now drain the water and repeat the process.

Your wetsuit should go into the rinse bucket last. Turn it inside-out first. You will need to push it down into the water to rinse all inside and outside surfaces. There are chemicals you can add to the water in the rinse bucket that will neutralize any urine or other smells.

Finishing up

This is another part you should already know.

After rinsing, allow all equipment to air dry thoroughly, out of direct sunlight.

Store your BC at least partially inflated, so that interior surfaces don’t stick together.

Hang your wetsuit up on a special wetsuit hanger. This puts the least strain on the suit.

Gently coil your regulator hoses and store them on a flat surface. Avoid hanging your regulator up by the first stage. Doing so puts unnecessary strain on the hoses.

Store all your equipment in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place, out of direct sunlight. This place should be free from extremes of heat or cold.

You can further protect your mask by storing it in the protective case it came in. Similarly, you can put your regulator in a padded storage bag.